Kedgeree at The Wolseley


If you haven’t eaten at The Wolseley – do so! Based in what was once a car showroom (think Rolls Royce not Vauxhall), and if nothing else the setting is utterly splendid. Perfect for a romantic evening, so long as you like a buzzy, busy atmosphere. And the food won’t totally break the bank. Which isn’t to say that it isn’t expensive – it is – but there are a variety of more affordable options on the menu. Kedgeree, at £12.00 is one of these more affordable options.

“It’s about as far from the vibrant, coronation chicken yellow that it can sometimes be”

Eschewing the obvious breakfast appointment for the dish, Rachael and I headed to The Wolseley in the evening (having taken our permission from the Time Out instructions that the dish makes as nice an end as it does a start to the day). I take things one step further with a starter of Eggs Benedict. This turns out to be a bit of a error, though not because of the dish itself. A perfectly toasted muffin holds an exquisite poached egg, and the most sumptuous, giggle-makingly delicious hollandaise I’ve even tasted. The reason it was a bit of a mistake is that said exquisite egg rather pre-empted the exquisite egg perched on top of the kedgeree! My mistake.

The kedgeree itself is more lightly curried that I would generally expect. It’s about as far from the vibrant, coronation chicken yellow that it can sometimes be. Rachael compliments the way that every grain of basmati remains separate, and it’s true: it hasn’t taken on any risotto or congee consistency, but remains a dish of many individual grains. I think this may be because the stock is a little watery, at least to my taste. Flakes of smoked fish are small, but make themselves known, and this certainly helps to bring the whole dish together: rather than delivering a bowl of weakly-flavoured rice with chunks of protein.

That said, the egg, once cut and allowed to ooze gloopily across the pile, takes things to another level, and what looks like a small plate does manage to satisfy. I insist to Rachael that the egg must be cooked sous vide (don’t all big top restaurants employ the technique for eggs?) – but this may be more down to my obsession that the truth. Without it, I think this dish would have been a pleasant, but rather ordinary one – lucky it was there!

Venison Puffs at Yauatcha


Okay, a confession. I’ve been to Yauatcha a couple of times before and I like it. In fact, I really like it – for high class dim sum I’m unsure it can be beaten. But – here’s the confession – I think the puffs tend to taste like mini-Cornish pasties.  And not in a good way. So to go there just to eat my last favourite class of nibble there seems a bit mad.

“So, basically, these were a revelation”

So, basically, these were a revelation. The sweet, thick gravy with melting deer meat was (yes really) a bit like a Cornish pasty, but in a good way. These were almost confection, with crisp, crumbly pastry comfortingly complemented by a tangy but warm filling. I’m not about to go back just for them, but with the other tasty treats in store at Yauatcha, I’d happily order these with a meal. Which will make Cornish pasty loving other half very happy!

30/100 of London’s best dishes