Walnut Miso Udon at Koya

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“Wow! Who knew walnut and miso could pack such a flavour punch?” When the first spoonful (Time Out helpfully gives instructions on how to eat the dish*) hits your mouth, you’re guaranteed to be impressed and surprised. Sweet, deeply nutty and earthy; hot water is instantly transformed into perfect broth.

“Where Burger and Lobster was pure entertainment, this was pure art”

The menu on Tuesday has both a hot broth with hot noodles and hot broth with cold noodles – in fact the latter just supplied the udon on the side. Rachael and I ordered one of each, and to be honest, there wasn’t much to choose between them except the additional options offered by the cold noodles in the side.

A variety of oriental mushrooms added to the earthy flavours, though according to Time Out the toppings you’ll find vary by visit. We added the poached egg (as advised) which added protein and another subtle flavour addition.

It felt pretty difficult to know where to place this dish. To be clear, the flavours and textures made for an impressive, delicious dish that genuinely made me reassess how good a bowl of noodle soup could be. I just wasn’t convinced that the dish itself would have me rushing back to order it again. It certainly made me want to return and try everything else on the menu! A better advert for the restaurant than a dish you might find yourself dreaming about. As Rachael put it, where Burger and Lobster was pure entertainment, this was pure art. I suspect entertainment is ultimately more fun to eat.

(*take a spot of walnut-miso paste on the edge of your spoon, hold in the water for a couple of seconds until cloudy, pile on a topping and savour.)

15/100 of the best dishes in London

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